Raised beds solve most of the common problems in vegetable gardening: poor soil, drainage issues, compaction, and limited space. They also warm up faster in spring, letting you plant earlier.
Choosing your dimensions: Maximum width: 4 feet (2 feet if against a wall) so you can reach the center without stepping in. Length: as long as you want. Height: 6 inches minimum, 12 inches ideal for most vegetables, 18–24 inches for a no-bend experience or deep-rooted crops.
Materials that work: Cedar and redwood naturally resist rot — they'll last 15–20 years. Douglas fir is cheaper and lasts 5–10 years. Galvanized metal beds are durable but heat up more in summer. Avoid pressure-treated lumber from before 2004 (contained arsenic); modern pressure-treated lumber (marked "CA-B" or newer) is generally considered safe but still controversial for food gardens.
Filling the bed:
For a 4x8 bed at 12 inches deep, you need roughly 32 cubic feet of material (1.2 cubic yards).
Best approach: Fill the bottom 4–6 inches with logs, sticks, straw, and rough compost (this technique, called hugelkultur, improves drainage and adds long-term fertility as it decomposes). Fill the top 6–8 inches with a quality planting mix.
Faster approach: Use Mel's Mix from the Square Foot Gardening lesson: 1/3 compost, 1/3 peat/coir, 1/3 perlite. This is expensive upfront but you won't need to amend it for years.
Budget approach: Local topsoil + compost (50/50). Add a bag of perlite if your topsoil is clay-heavy.
Location: 6+ hours of direct sun per day for most vegetables. Level ground. Within reach of a hose. Keep away from large trees — their roots will invade the bed within a few years.
What to plant first: In your first year, stick to forgiving crops: lettuce, radishes, green beans, zucchini, cherry tomatoes. These give you feedback quickly and tolerate beginner mistakes. Save finicky crops (peppers, melons, brassicas) for year two.